FAQs
Flooring questions, answered directly
Below are the questions we are asked most often, grouped by subject: choosing materials, costs and quotations, measuring and preparation, installation and living with your floor. Where an answer depends on your property, we say so rather than quoting a figure that will not hold.
Choosing flooring
- How should flooring be chosen for a period home?
- Flooring for a period home should respect the property's character while meeting modern practical needs, so a solid or engineered wood in a species and finish sympathetic to the building's age, or a wool carpet with a traditional pattern, often works well. Subfloor condition in older properties can vary considerably, so a site survey is particularly important before specifying.
- How much extra material is needed for herringbone flooring?
- Herringbone and other pattern-matched layouts generally need a higher wastage allowance than a straight lay, since the angled cuts at room edges create more offcuts. The exact allowance depends on the room's shape and the material's pattern repeat, so it is best calculated for the specific room rather than assumed from a general rule.
- What is the best flooring for a busy family kitchen?
- A durable, moisture-resistant option such as premium LVT or a well-sealed engineered wood tends to perform best in a busy kitchen, since both withstand spills and heavy footfall while being straightforward to clean. The right choice also depends on how the kitchen connects to adjoining rooms and whether visual consistency across an open-plan space matters to you.
- Is it worth using different flooring in different rooms?
- It is often sensible to vary flooring by room where practical needs genuinely differ, such as a hard-wearing LVT in a kitchen alongside wool carpet in adjoining bedrooms. The key is planning deliberate transitions at natural thresholds and keeping tones broadly coordinated, so the changes feel considered rather than arbitrary.
Stairs and runners
- What is the best carpet for a high-traffic staircase?
- A dense, low-profile construction such as a twist pile in a wool-rich blend or solution-dyed nylon generally performs best on a high-traffic staircase, since it resists crushing and matting far better than a deep or loose pile. A mid-tone or subtly patterned colourway also helps disguise everyday marking between cleans.
- Is sisal suitable for stairs?
- Sisal can be used on stairs and offers a distinctive natural texture, but it is generally better suited to lower-traffic staircases, since it can feel less forgiving underfoot and is more sensitive to moisture and staining than wool. Some households bind sisal with a wool or wool-blend border at the nosing as a practical compromise.
- What is the difference between a stair runner and full stair carpet?
- A stair runner is a strip of carpet fitted centrally down a staircase, leaving a border of exposed timber at each edge, whereas full stair carpet covers the tread edge to edge. Runners tend to suit staircases with attractive joinery worth showing off, while full carpet gives a softer, more enclosed feel.
Wood and LVT
- Can engineered wood be fitted over underfloor heating?
- Yes, engineered wood is generally well suited to underfloor heating because its cross-grain construction resists the expansion and contraction that heat cycles can cause. It is important to choose a product specifically rated for underfloor heating and to follow the manufacturer's guidance on commissioning the heating system gradually before and after installation.
- Does LVT need a perfectly level floor?
- LVT does not need to be mathematically perfect, but it does need to be genuinely flat and free of ridges, dips or debris, since even small imperfections can telegraph through the finished surface or cause premature wear at high points. Most subfloors benefit from a latex smoothing compound to achieve the flatness needed before fitting.
- What is the difference between gluedown and click LVT?
- Gluedown LVT is bonded directly to the subfloor with adhesive, giving a very stable, low-profile finish well suited to heavy use, while click LVT locks together as a floating floor, which is quicker to fit and easier to lift if needed. The right choice depends on the subfloor, the room's use and how permanent the installation needs to be.
- What causes gaps or movement in wood flooring?
- Gaps and movement typically result from changes in humidity and temperature causing timber to expand and contract, which is more pronounced in solid wood than engineered wood. Insufficient acclimatisation before fitting, an unsuitable subfloor, or unusually dry heating in winter can all contribute, and the right response depends on identifying the specific cause.
Preparation and installation
- When is a damp-proof membrane required beneath LVT?
- A damp-proof membrane is required when moisture testing shows the subfloor's moisture content exceeds the tolerance of the LVT and adhesive system being used, which is common in ground floor concrete slabs, new screeds, or properties with a history of damp. The threshold depends on the products involved, so testing should always precede the decision.
- How much wastage should be allowed when ordering flooring?
- Wastage allowances depend on the layout, the material's pattern repeat and the room's shape, with pattern-matched or herringbone layouts generally needing more allowance than a straight lay. This is guidance rather than a fixed rule, and it is best calculated for the specific floor once it has been measured.
- Why does subfloor moisture testing matter so much?
- Excess moisture beneath flooring such as LVT or engineered wood can cause adhesive failure, tile lifting or long-term structural damage to the floor, and these issues are far more costly to correct after installation than to prevent beforehand. Testing gives an objective basis for deciding whether a damp-proof membrane or further drying time is needed.
Working with us
- How long does a flooring consultation and installation take?
- An initial consultation typically involves discussing how each room is used and viewing samples, followed by a site survey to assess subfloor condition and take accurate measurements. Installation timescales vary considerably depending on the size of the project, the materials chosen and any preparation work needed, so this is best discussed for your specific home.
- Do you bring flooring samples to the property?
- Yes, bringing samples to view in the actual room, under its natural light and alongside existing furnishings, is a normal part of the consultation process, since colour and texture can look quite different in a showroom compared with a client's own home.
- What happens during a site survey?
- A site survey typically involves measuring each relevant room, assessing the condition of the existing subfloor, checking for moisture where relevant, and noting any preparation work that will be needed before new flooring can be fitted. This information feeds directly into an accurate quotation and installation plan.
Consultation
Planning a flooring project?
Tell us about your property, ideas and timescale. We will help you explore the most suitable materials and arrange the next step.